Pattern alterations: How to adjust the crotch in pants

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Adjusting the front crotch curve

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - scooping out the front crotch curve to eliminate excess fabric - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveWhen learning how to adjust the crotch in pants, a trickier adjustment to understand is the crotch curve itself. As a general rule of thumb, when the fabric folds up in big wrinkles because there is excess fabric, you need to make the pattern smaller, cutting off part of it along the curve. And vice versa, when the fabric stretches to fit around the body because there isn’t enough fabric, you need to add to the pattern at the curve.

Save this Cucicucicoo project on PinterestScooping out the front curve

In the example above, you can see that the waist fits where it should, so the rise doesn’t need to be adjusted. However there is a ridiculous amount of excess fabric wrinkling up at the crotch. You can pinch the fabric to get an idea of how much must be removed. 

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - scooping out the front crotch curve to eliminate excess fabric - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveLet’s say that we have to remove 1 cm on each side. Make a mark 1 cm in from the deepest part of the crotch curve (shown by the arrow). Then draw a new curve connecting the crotch point with the straighter part of the curve towards the top. Then cut along the line.

Making the front curve more shallow

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - modifying the front crotch curve to avoid pulled fabric - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveNow let’s imagine the opposite scenario. When the front curve is too deep, the fabric pulls across the front, making horizontal lines, as shown in the image above from Bespoke Unit. This not only looks bad, but feels bad, too!

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - modifying the front crotch curve to avoid pulled fabric - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveIn this case, we have to do the opposite as before, and add to the pattern. Again, let’s imagine that we have to add 1 cm on each side.

Tape the crotch curve to a piece of paper below. I’m using another color simply to show up better in photos. Then make a mark on the extra paper 1 cm from the deepest part of the crotch curve (shown by the arrow). Then draw a new curve connecting the crotch point with the straighter part of the curve towards the top and cut along the line.

This adjustment adds fabric to the pants pieces, thus creating more space inside the garment.

Adjusting the back crotch curve

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - modifying the back crotch curve - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveAdjusting the back crotch curve is basically the same as adjusting the front crotch curve. Likewise, the symptoms of this curve being too shallow or too deep are the same.

When the back crotch curve is too deep, the pants end up being too tight in the bum, creating horizontal lines as the fabric strains to reach across. And conversely, when the back crotch curve is too shallow, the pants are too wide across the bum, making the fabric sag. Both of these possibilities are shown in the image above, again from Bespoke Unit

Making the back curve more shallow

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - modifying the back crotch curve to avoid tight fit on the bum - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveThis is the adjustment that is more commonly used for the rear crotch curve, generally when the bum is proportionally larger than the rest of the bottom half of the body. In this case, we have to add to the pattern. Again, let’s imagine that we have to add 1 cm on each side.

Tape the crotch curve to a piece of paper below. Then make a mark on the extra paper 1 cm from the deepest part of the crotch curve (shown by the arrow). Then draw a new curve connecting the crotch point with the straighter part of the curve towards the top and cut along the line.

This adjustment adds fabric to the pants pieces, creating more space around the bum.

Scooping out the back curve

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! - modifying the back crotch curve to avoid excess fabric at the bum - #patternadjustment #crotchcurveWhen there is excess fabric sagging around the bum, you can pinch it to get an idea of how much must be removed. As usual, let’s say that we have to remove 1 cm on each side.

Make a mark 1 cm in from the deepest part of the crotch curve (shown by the arrow). Then draw a new curve connecting the crotch point with the straighter part of the curve towards the top. Then cut along the line.

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! #patternadjustment #crotchcurveThere are many other ways to adjust pants patterns, but these are most common and useful techniques to know when learning how to adjust the crotch in pants. Understanding how to analyze the fit of your trousers and what modifications to make in the pattern will allow you to create the perfect fit that will flatter your unique body!

How to lengthen or shorten a sewing pattern for a perfect fit - www.cucicucicoo.comAnother important adjustment that you can make to a pants sewing pattern is lenthening or shortening the legs. This is particularly useful if you are taller or shorter than average. Learn how to adjust the length of legs here!

If you want to get started sewing your own leggings, pants or trousers, make sure you check out the patterns in the Cucicucicoo Patterns shop!

Also, make sure you sign up for the Cucicucicoo Newsletter here for access to tons of free creative templates, patterns and downloadables! The Newsletter is sent out every other week with lots of great ideas and links to a different free sewing pattern every week!

Save this Cucicucicoo project on PinterestThis post on how to adjust the crotch in pants was useful, right? So make sure you click here to save it on Pinterest so you can refer to it whenever you need it!

Learn how to adjust the crotch in pants for a perfect fit! Simple pattern alterations avoid pulled or baggy fabric along your bum or crotch curves, making you look the best you can! #patternadjustment #crotchcurve*All starred links are affiliate links which help fund this blog. All opinions are my own.
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