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Cutting the pattern on directional fabric:
Using fabric with a one-way print isn’t really that different from using any other type of fabric, except for the fact that you have to fold the fabric in the right direction, and also that you can’t wedge in the pieces so you end up with more waste fabric.
1. Iron the fabric, then fold parallel to the selvage so that the directional print is running in the right direction on both the right and wrong sides. Trim the cut edges if necessary to make them even and perpendicular to the selvage.
Position the pattern so that one side is directly on the fold and the other side is parallel to and 1 cm away from the open cut side. Follow the instructions in the original Circle Skirt tutorial for calculating the skirt length and drawing and cutting the curve. I suggest pinning the fabric before cutting so that it stays folded and in place for the next steps. Notice that I folded the fabric so that the short edge ended right where the side curve of the skirt ended, so as to avoid waste. (top picture)
If the piece doesn’t fit on your fabric this way, either, because the fabric isn’t wide enough, you’ll need to cut quarter-circles instead of semicircles. I’ll show how to do this at the end of this post.
2. Remove the first cut piece (still pinned together) and reposition it along the same fold further down on the fabric. Then cut along the curves and the top straight edge of the first cut piece. This time there is no need to leave an extra 1 cm along the open edges because the first cut piece already includes it. (bottom picture)
Line up the straight edges, right sides facing. Pin (with label, if you have one) and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish off the straight edges and inside circle curve (if your fabric frays) with an overlocker or with the zigzag stitch. Use the instructions in the original Circle Skirt tutorial for adding the elastic waistband and hemming the skirt.
Isn’t that awesome?! A wonderfully full and swirly skirt with a cool printed fabric that is the right way up on both sides! I used this technique to sew three new skirts for my girl, who is going through a crazy growth spurt and desperately needed skirts that would actually cover her bum, and this one for me, and they have been our favorite clothes all summer long!
Cutting quarter-circles with the pattern:
If you want to be really precise so that your printed fabric shows up the right way even on the sides of the skirt (I didn’t bother for this simple print, but it makes sense to do it for a larger more obviously directional print), or if your pattern piece simply doesn’t fit onto your cut of fabric, you can use quarter-circles instead of semicircles. Just beware that you will need more fabric and will end up with a lot of scraps!
2. Open the pattern up again and draw a line along the inside of the creased fold to make it more easily visible. (marked with red arrows on the right)
3. Position the pattern on the fabric (without folding it) so that the creased fold runs parallel to the selvage, along the printed design. (marked with red arrows on the right)
4. Mark the bottom curve of the skirt as described for the other two skirts in this post, but this time make sure to leave a 1 cm seam allowance along both straight sides (marked by the gray arrows on the right). Cut this first piece out.
5. Reposition the first piece on the fabric, making sure that the crease is still positioned correctly along the printed design, and cut around it. This is the second piece.
6. Repeat step 5 twice more until you have four pieces. Sew them together along the straight edges, right sides facing, with a 1 cm seam allowance, so as to create the full circle, then continue sewing as with the other skirts.
Seriously, how could you not love wearing a circle skirt? They are just so fun and make every moment more lighthearted and joyful! And now that you know how to make a circle skirt with directional fabric or fabric that isn’t very wide, you have so many options! Yay!
The only tedious part of sewing a circle skirt is the hemming, but I have a fantastic trick to make is faster and easier! Check out how to hem a circle skirt with hidden single fold bias tape!
Or for an even simpler skirt to be made from unused clothing you already have, check out my tutorial for a refashioned skirt made from pants or trousers! It’s perfect for girls and women, and super fast to sew!
I know you love this tutorial, so make sure you Pin it to remember it for later and share with your friends! 🙂